 |
|
|
Guides and Charts
10kt
Karat is a unit of measure indicating the fineness of gold. Most gold jewelry contains gold and another metal, making it an alloy. 10 karat gold is 41.7% pure gold.
12kt
Karat is a unit of measure indicating the fineness of gold. Most gold jewelry contains gold and another metal, making it an alloy. 12 karat gold is 50% pure gold.
14kt
Karat is a unit of measure indicating the fineness of gold. Most gold jewelry contains gold and another metal, making it an alloy. 14 karat gold is 58.3% pure gold and is often preferred in jewelry for its durability.
18kt
Karat is a unit of measure indicating the fineness of gold. Most gold jewelry contains gold and another metal, making it an alloy. 18 karat gold is 75% pure gold and is often preferred in jewelry for its beauty and durability.
24kt
Karat is a unit of measure indicating the fineness of gold. 24 karat is 100% pure gold and is too soft for most jewelry. |
|
A |
Abalone
Abalone is a mollusk with a pearly shell that is often used in jewelry.
Adamantine
Adamantine, meaning “diamond-like luster and hardness,” is derived from the Greek word adamas (invincible) for diamonds.
Adularescence
Adularescence is the billowing shimmer of light floating across the surface of a moonstone.
Agate
Agate is a quartz crystal and a sub-variety of chalcedony. It is found in a wide range of pale colors including green, yellow, red, reddish-brown, white and bluish white. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, agate is 6.5-7. It has a waxy or dull luster and primary sources include South of Brazil (Rio Grande do Sul), north of Uruguay, Australia (Queensland), China, India, the Caucasus, Madagascar, Mexico, Mongolia, Namibia, Wyoming, and Montana.
Alexandrite
Alexandrite is a highly prized variety of chrysoberyl. In the daylight it appears grassy green and in tungsten light it appears raspberry red. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, alexandrite is 8.5. It has a strong vitreous luster and primary sources include Sri Lanka, Zimbabwe, and Brazil (Minas Gerais).
Alloy
An alloy is a compound made up of two or more metals.
Almandite/Almandine
Almandite is a variety of garnet. It is usually found in a violet red hue. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, almandite is 7.5. It has a vitreous luster and primary sources include Brazil, India, Madagascar, Sri Lanka and the United States.
Amber
Amber is a fossilized, organic mixture of pine resins, acids and volatile oils dating back at least 30 million years. It comes from the tree sap of the pine trees, pinus succinifera. It is predominantly found in yellow and brown colors. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, amber is 2-2.5. It has a vitreous luster and a resinous luster when polished. Its primary sources include Russia (Kaliningrad), Sicily/Italy (called Simetite), Rumania (called Rumanite), Burma (Myanmar - called Burmite), China, the Dominican Republic, Japan, Canada, Mexico, Alaska and New Jersey.
Amethyst
Amethyst is the most highly valued gemstone in the quartz family. It is found in a range of colors from violet to pale red-violet. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, amethyst is 7. Its primary sources include Brazil (Rio Granda, Para), Madagascar, Zambia, Uruguay, Burma (Myanmar), India, Canada, Mexico, Namibia, Russia, Sri Lanka and the United States (Arizona).
Ametrine
Ametrine is a quartz crystal that contains amethyst and citrine. It is a bi-color gemstone including the violet of amethyst and the yellow of citrine. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, ametrine is 7. It is primarily found in Bolivia.
Amorphous
Amorphous is an adjective meaning shapeless or lacking crystal structure.
Andalusite
Andalusite is a naturally occurring pleochroic gemstone. As the stone is rotated, different colors and different intensities of colors can appear including olive green, rich reddish brown or grayish green. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, andalusite is 7-7.5. It has a vitreous or mat luster and primary sources include Australia, Brazil, Canada, Russia, Spain (Andalusia), Sri Lanka and the United States.
Andradite
Andradite is a species of gemstones within the garnet family. It includes several significant gem varieties such as demantoid, melanite and topazolite. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, it is 3.7 – 4.1. For color and sources, see individual gemstones. (Note: Sources listed in order of primary and secondary deposits.)
Anklet
A chain or bangle designed to be worn around the ankle.
Apatite
Apatite is a naturally occurring beautiful gemstone. While it is known for its asparagus green hues, apatite actually can be found in a wide variety of colors ranging from colorless to pink, yellow, blue and violet. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, apatite is a soft 5. It has a vitreous luster and primary sources include Burma (Myanmar), Brazil, India, Kenya, Madagascar, Mexico, Norway, Sri Lanka, South Africa and the United States.
Aquamarine
Aquamarine is a member of the beryl family. It is known for its clear sky-blue color but is also found in a range of dark blues to blue-greens. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, aquamarine is 7.5-8. Its primary sources include Brazil, Russia (the Urals), Australia (Queensland), Burma (Myanmar), China, India, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Namibia, Nigeria, Zambia, Zimbabwe and the United States.
Art Deco Style
The Art Deco style features geometric patterns and vibrant colors. It flourished in the 1920s and 1930s, synthesizing a variety of influences such as ancient Egyptian and Mediterranean culture with modern technology.
Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau is a decorative style (circa 1890-1914) noted for its free-flowing lines and natural motifs.
Asterism
Four-rayed or six-rayed bands (cat’s eye) caused by light reflecting from needle-like inclusions within some gem crystals.
Aventurine Feldspar
Aventurine Feldspar is another name for Sunstone. |
|
B |
Baguette
These small, rectangular stones are used as accessories to larger stones and are normally step cut.
Bail
A metal attachment used for hanging a pendant from a chain or cord.
Band
A ring made from precious metal and normally with a uniform width.
Bangle
A rigid bracelet that slips over the wrist.
Bar Closure
Also known as a bar and clasp, this is a bar-shaped fastener that inserts into a catch with a pin.
Baroque Pearls
These distinctive pearls are found in unusual, intriguing shapes that lend themselves to uniquely designed pieces of jewelry.
Barrel Catch/Clasp
Used to connect two ends of a chain, the barrel catch has two halves that screw together, forming the shape of a barrel.
Base Metal
A base metal is any non-precious metal such as copper, zinc and manganese.
Basket
This fancy setting exhibits a lacy, basket-like appearance through multiple holes pierced in the side.
Bead
A bead is a gemstone, usually round, with a hole pierced through it so that it can be strung.
Beryl
Beryl is a silicate mineral with several varieties of gemstones including well known gems like emerald, aquamarine, as well as more exotic gems like goshenite, morganite. These various gemstones come in a wide variety of colors ranging from greens, blues, yellows, reds, pinks and colorless. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, beryl is 7.5-8. Its primary sources vary depending on the specific gemstone. (Note: Sources listed in order of primary and secondary deposits.)
Bevelled
Beveled refers to a surface cut at an angle that is less than 90 degrees. Watch bezels are commonly bevelled.
Bezel
A bezel is a narrow piece of metal used to hold a gem in place on a piece of jewelry.
A bezel is also the part of the watch surrounding the crystal on a watch face. Bezels may or may not contain gems and may or may not be textured. The bezel also holds the crystal in place.
Birthstone
The fascination with birthstones is almost as old as civilization. Originating in ancient India, modern jewelers have simplified and popularized this chart in the West.
While there are several birthstone charts, the following is recognized by most American jewelers:
January - Garnet
February - Amethyst
March - Aquamarine
April - Diamond
May - Emerald
June - Pearl
July - Ruby
August - Peridot
September - Sapphire
October - Opal
November - Citrine
December - Blue Topaz
Black Hills Gold
From the Black Hills of South Dakota, this jewelry style blends yellow, rose and green golds in a grape leaf-inspired design.
Black Onyx
Black onyx is neither onyx nor black. It is actually dyed chalcedony. According to some experts, “Black onyx is produced by boiling slabs of grayish chalcedony in a solution of sugar which enters the pores between the submicrocrystallites.” The dye is stable and requires no special care.
Blemish
A blemish is a nick, scratch or any other flaw on the stone surface.
Blister Pearl
A blister pearl is a pearl that forms attached to the shell.
Bloodstone
From the chalcedony family, this green stone has red spots that look like blood.
Boulder Opal
Boulder opal is a member of the opal family. It has a dark base surface with an exciting play of color. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, boulder opal is 1.98-2.50. Its primary sources include Australia, Brazil, Guatemala, Honduras, Indonesia, Japan, Mexico, Russia, Nevada, and Idaho.
Box clasp/Tongue & Groove Clasp
Used to connect two ends of a chain, this clasp incorporates a box with a notch on one end and a metal spring that slips into the box and locks.
Box Chain
The links on a box chain form wide and square boxes.
Bridal Set
A matching set of rings that include an engagement ring and a wedding band.
Brilliance
Brilliance is the reflection and refraction of light displayed through a stone.
Brilliant Cut
The style of cutting a stone with multiple facets in a particular way designed to maximize brilliance. Modern round brilliant cuts have 58 facets.
Briolette
A tear or pear shaped stone cut in triangular facets.
Brooch
Designed to be worn on clothing, this ornamental piece of jewelry attaches with a pin and clasp.
Brushed Finish
A textured (satin) finish made from tiny parallel lines etched on the metal surface.
Bruting
Bruting is the initial shaping of a rough gemstone.
Burnishing
Burnishing is a polishing method that magnifies the shine and luster of a metal by combining friction and compression without eliminating any metal.
Buttercup Setting
Resembling a buttercup flower, this deep setting has six prongs that flare out from a scalloped shaped base.
Butterfly Chain
A style of chain that has tiny butterfly-shaped links and oval-shaped “wings.”
Button earrings
These earrings look like buttons, laying flat with no dangling parts.
Byzantine chain
A Byzantine chain consists of oval links forming an intricate tubular chain. |
|
C |
Cable chain
Round uniform links join to form this standard style chain.
Cabochon
A highly polished, unfaceted gemstone cut into the shape of a small dome.
Calcium carbonate
This is one of the most common minerals on the face of the earth and is found in calcite, aragonite and vaterite. Thousands of microscopic calcite and aragonite crystals form the layers of nacre forming a pearl.
Cameo
A cameo is a cut ornamental stone that forms a raised picture (normally a portrait) in relief against a contrasting background. (Also, see intaglio.)
Carat
Carat describes the actual weight of a stone—not the size. If you think in terms of grams, 1 gram is equal to 5 carats. This metric equivalency provides a level of uniformity anywhere in the world.
Carnelian
Carnelian is a quartz crystal and a sub-variety of chalcedony. It is found in flesh-color to reddish brown to a uniform red. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, carnelian is 6.5 - 7. It has a waxy or dull luster and primary sources include Brazil, India and Uruguay.
Casting
A casting is a jewelry setting created using a mold.
Cat’s eye
A term that describes the sharply reflected play of light on certain round gems such as chrysoberyl and some chalcedony that appears similar to the slits in a cat’s eye.
Center Stone
The center stone is the prominent center piece in a setting.
Chalcedony
Chalcedony represents a family of fine-grained quartz crystals including agate, chyrsoprase, bloodstone, jasper, carnelian, moss agate, onyx and sard. There is also a bluish-white-gray variety known as chalcedony. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, chalcedonies are 6.5 – 7. In their natural state, they have a waxy or dull luster. For source information, see specific stones.
Channel setting
This type of setting holds a number of gemstones side by side in a grooved channel. Each stone is not secured individually and there is no metal visible between stones.
Charm
A charm is a decorative ornament hanging from a bracelet, necklace or earring.
Charm Bracelet
A charm bracelet designed to hold charms that was particularly popular in the 1960s.
Chatoyancy
Chatoyancy is the appearance of a shimmering light that moves across the surface of certain stones and appears as a narrow line similar to a cat’s eye. This effect is most noticeable on a cabochon cut stone.
Chevron Style
Often found in heraldry, this design is made up of short lines forming an inverted “V” pattern.
Choker
Similar to a collar necklace, this close fitting necklace style is just a little looser. A choker pearl necklace is usually 14 to 16 inches long
Chrysoberyl
Chrysoberyl is a mineral that produces gemstones ranging from golden-yellow to green-yellow, green, brownish and red. Two prized chrysoberyl gemstones include alexandrite and chrysoberyl cat’s eye. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, it is 8.5, making chrysoberyl among the hardest gemstones. Sources include Brazil, Sri Lanka, Burma (Myanmar), Russia (Urals), Zimbabwe and the United States.
Chrysoberyl Cat’s Eye
Chrysoberyl cat’s eye is a highly prized gemstone in the chrysoberyl family. The shortened term “cat’s eye” always refers to chrysoberyl cat’s eye. When cut in a cabochon or dome style, it displays fine, parallel lines of moving light rays that appear similar to the pupil of a cat. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, it is fairly hard at 8.5. Primary sources include Sri Lanka and Brazil as well as China, India, and Zimbabwe.
Chrysolite
See Olivine.
Chrysoprase
Chrysoprase is the name for apple-green chalcedony.
Cigar Band Style
A cigar band ring is the term used to describe a ring with a wide band.
Citrine
Citrine is a quartz crystal. While its name refers to a lemon yellow color, citrine can be found in a range of yellows from light yellow to dark yellow and golden brown. On Mohs’ scale of hardness, citrine is 7. Sources include Brazil, Madagascar, the United States, Argentina, Burma (Myanmar), Namibia, Russia, Scotland and Spain.
Claddagh Ring/Pendant
This is a unique design with two hands clasping a heart topped by a crown. The design is over 300 years old and used to symbolize faith, trust and loyalty.
Clarity
Clarity grading for diamonds is determined by the location, type and extent of inclusions or blemishes present in or on any stone.
Clasp
A clasp is an adjustable catch, bent plate or hook that connects two ends of a piece of jewelry. Clasps may be simple or ornate.
Cleavage
Among gemstones, cleavage refers to the act of splitting or the tendency to break parallel to certain flat planes. Cleavage is rarely entirely on one level but can have a step like appearance. A gem’s cleavage can be easy or difficult and can range from perfect to imperfect, depending on the cohesive properties of atoms in the gemstone and the strength of those bonds based on direction of growth. Some gemstones such as quartz have no cleavage.
Cloisonné
This type of enamelwork incorporates thin metal strips soldered onto a metal plate. The outlined design is filled with enamel paste, creating a decorative pattern.
Cluster
Multiple stones grouped together in a jewelry setting. This type of setting is used for cluster rings, cluster pendants and cluster earrings.
Clutch
An attachment used to secure a piece of jewelry such as an earring back.
Cocktail Ring
This large, oversized ring set with gemstones was highly popular in the 1940s and 1950s.
Coin Style Edge
A coin style edge is a ridged edge on jewelry similar to the look of the edge of a coin.
Collar
At 12 to 23 inches, this necklace style fits tightly around the neck and sometimes has several strands.
Color (Diamonds)
Color (or the absence of color) is one of the most noticeable characteristics of a diamond. Color grading, using the GIA scale, ranges from D to Z, with D being colorless and Z being heavily (usually yellow) colored. Colorless stones (designated D, E, and F) command the highest prices.
Color (Gemstones)
Color is the one of the most important characteristics in appreciating gemstone. Color in gemstones is described by hue, saturation and tone.
Color Change Gems
Color change gems change color due in changing light conditions (Alexandrite) or from different angles (Andalusite).
Colored Diamonds
Also known as fancy diamonds, this refers to all diamonds that are not white.
Comfort Fit
A ring designed with a rounded interior finish, providing long term comfort for the wearer.
Convex
“Curving outward” like the surface of a sphere.
Corundum
Corundum is a gem mineral composed of gas oxygen and light metal aluminum. The two most valuable corundum include Ruby and Sapphire. Due to its hardness, brilliance and variety, some experts consider corundum to be the most important and most versatile of the gem families.
Crown
A faceted stone can be divided into an upper and lower section. The upper section or top is referred to as a crown. The lower section is referred to as a pavilion. The perimeter where both parts meet is referred to as a girdle. The flat plane on top of the stone is called a table, and the bottom point (when present) is referred to as a culet.
Crystal
Crystal contains a minimum of 10% lead oxide giving it an extraordinary character of brilliance.
Cubic Zirconia
Cubic Zirconia (CZ) is a lab created diamond simulant. While CZ is a transparent stone, trace elements can be added to the manufacturing process, producing a wide range of colors. On Mohs’ scale of hardness scale, CZ is harder than other gemstones except for diamond, ruby, sapphire and chrysoberyl. Some of the most popular CZs are manufactured in Russia.
Cultured Pearl
Patented in 1916 by Kokichi Mikimoto, this is a process of cultivating pearls by artificially inserting a small irritant (like a small bead from mother-of-pearl) into an oyster or other bivalve mollusk.
Curb Link Chain
This chain is made up of oval links that lie flat.
Cushion Cut
A cushion cut stone is a square or rectangular cut with rounded corners and multiple facets for maximum light refraction.
Cut
The shape and style of a finished gemstone is known as a “cut.”
Culet
A faceted stone can be divided into an upper and lower section. The upper section or top is referred to as a crown. The lower section is referred to as a pavilion. The perimeter where both parts meet is referred to as a girdle. The flat plane on top of the stone is called a table, and the bottom point (when present) is referred to as a culet. |
|
|
|
